天麟海外艺术创意启发中心 | 2021-05-12
CSM和LVMH一直有着良好的合作关系。自2012年以来，LVMH已为40名本科生和研究生提供了奖学金。在CSM学者和LVMH高层的交流中，大家都认可这种合作关系可以鼓励更多创新性的、对环境友好的工作。最新的LVMH LIFE 360环境战略提出了集团在气候变化、生物多样性、循环性和透明度方面的主要目标。Maison/0项目的总监概述了该项目未来五年的计划：在设计理念上推进从可持续设计到再生型设计的明确转变，并呼吁设计师在生活系统内部和外部进行工作。
这次发布会还宣布，CSM将于2022年开设一个新的课程：再生设计硕士（MA Regenerative Design），教研团队将包括设计师、生态学家和人类学家。学生们将深入理解所处的生物圈，在当地社区进行再生性、恢复性和补充性的实践。传统上设计是一门以人类为中心的学科，CSM将致力于将多物种思维纳入设计工作中。
Credit: Irene Roca Moracia, MA Design (left), Jiyong Kim, BA Fashion Menswear (right)
Yesterday, Central Saint Martins and LVMH announced the new phase of Maison/0. Current students, notable alumni and staff came together to discuss how creativity can respond to climate and biodiversity emergencies.
Hosted by MA Fashion Communication: Fashion Journalism alum Malcolm-Curtis Hill, the launch began with a joint welcome from Jeremy Till, Head of Central Saint Martins, and Chantal Gaemperle, EVP Human Resources and Synergies at LVMH.
“We are here, and we'll be here, to support the next generation of creatives… You've already shown us how creative you are. From bio iridescent sequins to biodegradable body pieces made of SCOBY, you've shown us that you can break new ground and make our industry progress. ”
— Chantal Gaemperle, EVP Human Resources and Synergies at LVMH
“Central Saint Martins students are already engaged with creating the ideas, materials and actions for a better future. But pair them with an ambitious and visionary industry giant like LVMH, and they are inspired to go beyond expectation. ”
— Jeremy Till, Head of Central Saint Martins
Since 2012, LVMH has supported 40 students, both undergraduate and postgraduate, with scholarships. Several scholars - some current students and some graduates - shared their experiences. Mizuki Tochigi, for example, was able to purchase specialised tools to create her extraordinary jewellery collection from recycled plastic while Seli Korsi commented "I'm really excited about this scholarship and to show what I can do with it".
This was followed by Antoine Arnault, Image & Environment at LVMH, in conversation with Rachel Dickson, Dean of Academic Programmes at Central Saint Martins. They discussed the relationship between the two organisations and the role of the partnership to encourage innovative, nature-positive work. Asked how LVMH was going to become more sustainable, Arnault replied:
"By being open minded, by not thinking we own the truth and that it's not a sin to change your mind or to make a mistake. By working in collaboration with experts in their field - which in some cases we are not - and by working with scientists and sometimes even with competitors… By working with you at CSM. I would ask students to be bold and honest with us."
Carole Collet, Director of Maison/0, and Alexandre Capelli, LVMH Group Environment Deputy Director - together the co-conspirators behind the partnership - then unveiled its future focus. Capelli presented the new LVMH LIFE 360 environment strategy with key targets for climate, biodiversity, circularity and transparency. Collet outlined the plans for Maison/0's next five years with a clear shift from sustainable design to regenerative design and with it a call for designers to work with, and within, living systems:
“With regenerative design, we design as nature. That's quite a radical shift and not easy. The next five years of the partnership will be very exciting, very challenging, because together we want to create new tools and new methods for designers to shift into regenerative systems… One of the first things to do is to question ourselves. What is our own value system? What are our criteria for success? ”
— Carole Collet, Director, Maison/0
The launch also included the announcement of a new course for 2022: MA Regenerative Design. "This new course goes beyond sustainability," explained Collet, "it's a living systems approach to design. The team will incorporate a designer, an ecologist and anthropologist which is fairly unusual for a design course. Students will be embedded in their home biosphere and they will develop actions to regenerate, restore, replenish whatever is needed in their locality. The ethics of care is critical for this and what we want to address is that design is traditionally a very anthropocentric discipline. We need to step up, not just designing for humans but designing for non-humans. We need to incorporate multi-species thinking in the way we design."
Towards the end of the event, Central Saint Martins alum Stella McCartney responded to questions from Daniela Benaim, previous LVMH scholar and MA Fashion Communication alum. Talking about recent innovations in biomaterials, McCartney said, "In fashion, we've leaned into the same 10 materials for hundreds of years and I think that mycelium, Milo leathers and things like that are there the future... There's an amazing future for fashion if we can actually make these things part of the system. It would save all of us."
Reflecting on the changes over recent years, she continued: "The biggest change is feeling comfortable having this conversation. I was always the 'eco weirdo' in the room, and made fun of for the way I approached the industry. That's really shifted and it's a huge positive… My advice is don't take no for an answer. You're fighting every day, but you're fighting for good."
The launch was followed by a symposium sharing projects from across Central Saint Martins and LVMH.